So long girlhood, fashion's rebelliously grown up | J5H8KB8 | 2024-04-29 14:08:01
What's behind Findikoglu's "unrelenting vortex of femme energy"?
Findikoglu's self-described "unrelenting vortex of femme energy" flouts all that is holy and flaunts all that is not under the church's hallowed eaves. Worship at the altar of perversion, illusion, fantasy, repression and control.
Her opening look featured a sheer-cupped white corset top with a deconstructed pinstripe suit and button-up shirt on the model's lower half held together by a safety pin, with an eyelet-style belt tied around her head in a bow. Objects such as a pen, lighter and watch were tucked into her bra cups — an opaque rebellion against the limitations of pocketless womenswear repeated throughout the show. No pockets? No problems. Note: to be a woman in a sheer corset is not merely to titillate.
It's not so much about marking new territory as it is about the most post-anything mash up of femininity and fashion that nods generously to its mythopoeic icons including Queen Victoria and Jean Paul Gaultier at the Simone Rocha show, Stevie Nicks at the Ann Demeulemeester show and Alexander McQueen. Originality lies in violent pastiche.
Why is red the colour of the season?
Speaking of violence, bold shots of red are another hellish essential this year — with a "pop of red" one of the biggest trends on social media. Red is the perfect paradox to express this year's mood: she's passion, desire, power, danger, anger. It's also the colour of blood, obviously. Remember the murderous blood-spatter all over Megan Fox's outfits of iconic 2009 slasher film Jennifer's Body? Do not mess with the lady in red. She demands our attention but is raging and potent.
Elsewhere, the poisonous femme fatale is back in all her archival glamour at Alexander McQueen, and in pure sexy drapery at Courrèges. Nicolas Di Felice's two neck-to-toe red looks at Courrèges were the highlight of the otherwise monochromatic and cyber-minimalist show. Form-hugging red sheaths wrap around the models and melt into red tights and boots (not the MSCHF Big Red Boots — there's a difference between violently good and violently bad, which is what these are.)
Are we moving on from the girly bow?
One of the Courrèges dresses is a long sleeved, sheer number with a key-hole cutout at the belly button, a pair of bikini cut black briefs with a small pink bow is visible. Okay, it's giving girl! We don't make the rules, the bow is the universal symbol of girlhood. Despite reaching oversaturation in fashion at the end of last year, the bow is, well, timeless. But is there a new twist? The youthful and utilitarian bow-adorned underwear at Courrèges seem to be saying that we can still do girl things without it being branded as girl — gasp. The big eyelet belt headbands at Findikoglu fuse the bow into a darker and more monstrous accessory that builds on centuries of female adornment and constriction. Try branding that as simply 'girl'.
And of course, there's also the effect of scale. Refer to Jordan Dalah's big red bow, and this season's XXL bows or even bow ties from designers including the ever-covetable Simone Rocha, Balmain, Gmbh and Marie Adam-Leenaerdt. It was only recent history when the pussy bow blouse became the female equivalent of the male suit and tie popularised by conservative politicians like Margaret Thatcher. There's some damning political clout to that. Girls may begin with one small and sweet bow, but we'll go to hell wearing the biggest one of them all.
Related: In 2023, the hair bow rebrands itself
How do I dress like I'm going to Hell in 2024?
The answer is you probably already are. Rejoice! Everything about femininity is hell-bound. Fashion is where we get to play up and slay up in the muck.
Boning is back, sheer is staying, bows are getting bigger, and the colour of the revolution is blood red!!! A vermilion latex bustier, thanks to Miaou and the queen Caroline Polachek? Yes. Red underlayers are an easy way to inject violence into your wardrobe and stay warm with plenty of tips on TikTok and if you need any more convincing, behold, Rihanna. On home shores, Melbourne label Maroske Peech is redefining the coquette look with its riotously feminine pieces made in deadstock fabric. If it's even still a choice, choose sheer. Be empowered by historic moments like Florence Pugh in sheer lavender and magenta at the Valentino shows in Paris and Rome 2023. And don't forget to put useful items inside your sheer bra cups a la Findikoglu! Bare all essentials: phone, wallet, keys, nipples.
Cute or crazy? Angelic or devilish? Defy the dichotomies and make the trends your breakfast buffet. It's your ride to hell so let's make it fun.
Related: No, leopard print isn't a neutral but that's not a bad thing
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